The Great Wall (hiking from Jingshanling to Simatai)

My parents came to visit, and I've been showing them around Beijing for all of last week. On Wednesday we visited the Great Wall. There are many places along the Wall to go to, and it is always the question which site is the least touristic but still accessible. We chose to put on our hiking boots and walk from Jinshanling to Simatai sections of the Wall, which is approximately 10km over steep hills. It was pretty exhausting, especially in the bright sunny day.


We had left our house at 6:30 AM and after a subway to Dongzhimen boarded a bus to Miyun, a town close to the Wall. There we tried to take a local bus, but the next one was at 11:00 so we negotiated a taxi (return trip for 150 RMB). It wasn't such a bad deal, as there were four of us and a private pickup would be much faster than a local bus. Our driver dropped us off at one place, and would pick us up at the other in the afternoon.

The Wall was amazing, like one would expect. Along with us was a large group of foreigners with tour guide, but we quickly managed to overtake them and were pretty much alone all day, except for a few hikers along the way.
The route we were taking lead us up and down and was steep at some points. Most sections of the Wall were not restored, and looked authentic.

We walked for nearly four hours through the hot sun, but the views were definately worth a little sunburn!

The area around the Wall is dry and dusty, with the exeption of a couple colorful trees with blossoms.

We passed countless watchtowers, some of them no more than ruins



Chen Yi with everpresent camera and tripod

This woman followed us half the way. When we started, a group of local women followed us and helped us, asking us to buy souvenirs later. They were very friendly (too friendly) and after a while became pushy to sell us souvenirs (post cards, books and drinks). This woman followed my mother for one hour, almost holding her hand every step she took, until we told her to get lost.

The total length of the Great Wall is more than 6,000 km, and it seems endless when standing on top. I pity the builders who had to carry all the heavy stones up here in the middle of nowhere.

There are many small hills, with climbs of a few hundred meters in altitude (up to 500)

The steepest section is 70 degrees; that is nearly vertical!



Halfway we had lunch. We had brought a picnick with wine (Great Wall wine!). We ate fried fish, potato salad, sausages, bread with Dutch cheese and drank a glass of wine. After this my bag felt several kilo's lighter (might have also been partly due to the wine on a hot day)

Four hours is more than enough for the hike. We walked fast, and took many breaks along the way. Neverhteless it was a serious excercise and by the end of the day we were all tired.

The weather was perfect; 27 degrees or so, a little windy and almost clear skies.

20 minutes before the end, we reached the Simatai section of the wall, which belongs to Beijing (the other side belongs to another county) and we had to pay again (40 RMB). A sneaky tactic to earn some extra money, we thought. The Simatai section of the wall was not so impressive, because it was mostly restored and looked 'new'.

My parents enjoying the view

Fortunately, the second part of the hike was mostly downhill.

The end of our hike is in sight (halfway up the next hill)

Chinese New Year in Hunan

The Chinese New Year traditionally lasts for nearly two weeks, and everyday we visit relatives. Today we (a group of 10 cousins, brothers and other relatives) paid a quick visit to an auntie in another small town.

We rented a minivan for 5 Euros and drove for half an hour. In the small town, the locals all gathered to stare at me, while the others unloaded a big bag of fireworks in front of the auntie's door. For a few minutes the noise and smoke was unbearable, because we shot all the fire crackers at the same time. When the smoke cleared a little, the auntie came outside with cups of tea and peanuts and oranges. We all shouted "bai nian!" (Happy New Year) and then left again. She came running after us with a "hong bao" (red envelope) with a symbolic amount of money inside (most common 68, 88 or 106 Yuan because 6 and 8 are lucky numbers). She stuck an envelope in each of our pockets, followed by a pack of cigarettes.

This is how we spend most days here in Hunan. Lots of traditions in the small towns and very interesting. We eat three meals a day of mostly meat, the most fancy and expensive meat around (smoked ham, fresh chicken and ducks or mutton hotpot). With dinner, a few cups of home made rice wine are always served, no matter what time of day. My girlfriend has a large family, so there are many uncles and grand aunties to visit; more than ten. We can manage two or three a day, and in turn they will all visit her family too.

When people visit, the men usually run to the table to play poker, while the women play Mah Jong. The host is walking around serving tea, sunflower seeds, candy and cigarettes to everyone. After an hour or so, the floor is covered with cigarette butts, peanut shells and other garbage. Outside the front door is a pile of red paper from the fireworks that never ends. Sometimes the guests stay overnight because there is no public transportation in the evenings. When the guests leave, the floor is swept with a big mop, and everything is ready and clean again for then next group.

During dinner the younger people are required to have a dink with the elders. Say cheers to them one by one. It is also common for them to put food in other people's bowl (as in: "here, you can have this nice boiled duck head" :) The host will pour alcohol continually, and it is a custom to refuse, even fight about it, and then have him pour another cup anyways. After dinner rice is served. "Eat more!" they always say, no matter how much I eat. Being the only foreigner here, I always get a special treatment (eg. they give me more food, more to drink, let me sit in the best seat... that sort of thing). The men always look puzzled when I refuse cigarettes. Literally all the men in the small villages smoke. They also always ask if I am used to spicy food yet. I alway smile and say "yes!"~

Chun Jie (Chinese New Year)

Happy Chinese New Year!

I went to Hunan, to my girlfriend's hometown. It was nearly impossible to buy train tickets, most tickets were already sold out before the ticket office opened... (due to corruption). Everybody was stressed, since it is very important for Chinese people to visit their families during the Spring Festival/New Year. We had to buy our tickets from some office that charged nearly double prices. They were delivered by some guy on a motorbike at midnight the day before we left. We were lucky to get tickets at all! We were also lucky to have sleepers in the 13 hour train ride, and it was sort of comfortable. We arrived in Changsha, Hunan's capital city at 10:00 AM, and had to buy bus tickets to the small town we were going to. This was not easy. We spent 1 hour in line to buy the tickets, and then boarded the last bus there.

The endless queue in front of the ticket office. There must have been at least 100 people waiting in front of us.

The ticket hall

Almost my turn..

Once in Dong Kou, everything was good. We were welcomed by Chen Yi's family and ate good food and drank home made wine. This picture was taken behind the house, were there is a mountain and forest. We went out to get firewood, since they cook on coals and wood.

A little room is reserved for 'la ruo'; dried and smoked meat and fish. This was the warmest room in the house so we stayed here all day. (We smelled like smoked ham afterwards)

Getting firewood

Banners for the New Year with good luck wishes. People paste them on their front door

The town was very crowded the day before the New Year, with people doing their shopping. It is tradition to give lots of gifts during this time, such as cigarettes, wine, candy and food.

Smoked meat. So delicious!

I learned how to make 'mi jiu'; rice wine. First mix rice and water with yeast...

Then distill it three or four times

Everything made with local products

Cooking on wood fire

Wild deer from the mountains, oh so delicious! We ate dog meat, deer, wild pig, frogs and many, many more delicious things