Chinese New Year in Hunan

The Chinese New Year traditionally lasts for nearly two weeks, and everyday we visit relatives. Today we (a group of 10 cousins, brothers and other relatives) paid a quick visit to an auntie in another small town.

We rented a minivan for 5 Euros and drove for half an hour. In the small town, the locals all gathered to stare at me, while the others unloaded a big bag of fireworks in front of the auntie's door. For a few minutes the noise and smoke was unbearable, because we shot all the fire crackers at the same time. When the smoke cleared a little, the auntie came outside with cups of tea and peanuts and oranges. We all shouted "bai nian!" (Happy New Year) and then left again. She came running after us with a "hong bao" (red envelope) with a symbolic amount of money inside (most common 68, 88 or 106 Yuan because 6 and 8 are lucky numbers). She stuck an envelope in each of our pockets, followed by a pack of cigarettes.

This is how we spend most days here in Hunan. Lots of traditions in the small towns and very interesting. We eat three meals a day of mostly meat, the most fancy and expensive meat around (smoked ham, fresh chicken and ducks or mutton hotpot). With dinner, a few cups of home made rice wine are always served, no matter what time of day. My girlfriend has a large family, so there are many uncles and grand aunties to visit; more than ten. We can manage two or three a day, and in turn they will all visit her family too.

When people visit, the men usually run to the table to play poker, while the women play Mah Jong. The host is walking around serving tea, sunflower seeds, candy and cigarettes to everyone. After an hour or so, the floor is covered with cigarette butts, peanut shells and other garbage. Outside the front door is a pile of red paper from the fireworks that never ends. Sometimes the guests stay overnight because there is no public transportation in the evenings. When the guests leave, the floor is swept with a big mop, and everything is ready and clean again for then next group.

During dinner the younger people are required to have a dink with the elders. Say cheers to them one by one. It is also common for them to put food in other people's bowl (as in: "here, you can have this nice boiled duck head" :) The host will pour alcohol continually, and it is a custom to refuse, even fight about it, and then have him pour another cup anyways. After dinner rice is served. "Eat more!" they always say, no matter how much I eat. Being the only foreigner here, I always get a special treatment (eg. they give me more food, more to drink, let me sit in the best seat... that sort of thing). The men always look puzzled when I refuse cigarettes. Literally all the men in the small villages smoke. They also always ask if I am used to spicy food yet. I alway smile and say "yes!"~